Eggcellent. Commis is widely known as the best food in the East Bay and from reading some of these reviews it becomes clear that there is a bit of a reputation at stake. Some items have been on the menu for years, others rotate, there’s plenty of seasonal and local fare, and the flavors are exactly what I’ve come to expect from Michelin grade establishments.

With two Michelin stars in 2023, Commis succeeds in rare form and offers some truly exceptional cuisine. So let’s dig in. The establishment is small by many standards and features only a few tables, so the staff to diner ratio is well in the favor of the diners. Water glasses never run empty here. And though the open kitchen is within reach, it’s not boisterous or noisy. A quiet corner can be yours in any part of the room. Reservations are expected and you’ll want to reserve weeks ahead to avoid any issues. The drinks menu is extensive and every detail down to the tables and flowers is considered. You’ll notice in photos some wonderful flatware with inlays, gold, and intricate touches here and there.

Decor is minimalist, industrial, modern. Befits the area. Small bites commence with an oyster and memorable flavored ice within, hinting at guava… a crisp bit of taro on an inventive chip, and a puff of caramelized onion and sour cream. Fascinating sort of cheeky takes on classics perhaps? Some of the drink names are likewise playful and cheeky. It’s a fun twist. Commis isn’t too pretentious to play a joke. From elegant crab to caviar to beets, the flavors build to a middle crescendo that feels like a continue wallop of hit dishes right in the middle of the meal. A legendary starring sourdough bread and an onion soup with the titular poached egg creates a sensational place to be before main savory courses. If anything the bread is too good. The cultured butter is divine. How can anything after live up to this? It certainly tries though. Somewhere in this play emerges a pork dumpling set in tapioca served on a warm stone.

Temperature and texture and flavors are all a delight to the senses. Really worth a second mention and worth savoring. Monkfish and bison follow on the heels of the stars, and then some gastronomic wonders close the meal for dessert in 3 parts. The monkfish and sabayon were perhaps the only parts I’d have changed, flavors didn’t do anything miraculous for me but every dish was at least good if not great - and among such a cast how can every actor be a superstar? Some must play support. The final sweet bites are awesomely creative, from the “capsule” ice cream trapped in ice to the fancy mochi and small lush cake.

It’s all really quite inventive. And all in all the 2 Michelin stars feel well deserved at this price point, with 10+ courses, lovely ambiance, and a truly creative flare to the menu… we’d certainly return. And I want the recipe for that bread! What a showstopper.